Chapter 6. How to Get Spares

Making spares consistently is the principal distinction between the star and the average bowler. The star knows that if he continues to pick up his spares, he will wind up with a respectable game, and that the strikes will come eventually. In the meantime, he chalks up his spares so that when the strikes do arrive, he can come through with big counts.

The average bowler, on the other hand, never bothers to figure that if he made only spares throughout a game, he could still shoot a game of 190. He is always too intent on the strike, which is the beginning and end of bowling as far as he is concerned. He never really stops to consider the importance of the spare shot, and consequently he never practices shooting at spares. You would be surprised to know how many bowlers who have been at the game for years have never ordered a pin boy to set up a spare leave on which they might practice.

I know from personal experience that spares can make or break you, especially when your strike ball is not clicking as it should. Many a time I have gone what seemed to be endless frames without a strike, just converting each spare as it popped up, and then suddenly found myself right up in the running as the strikes began to appear.

The point I am making is that I kept myself in the running by making the spares and thus avoided those really bad low games that can cost the difference between winning a tournament and finishing twentieth.

So aim at every spare carefully. Play mentally each spare that you see on the lanes next toxyou. Play them intelligently. That means attacking them from the proper angle so that the ball strikes the pins at the best possible spot and at the best angle to topple them all.

FAST AND SLOW ALLEYS Despite their smooth, glistening appearance, no two bowling lanes are alike. Some are fast, and some are slow. The fast alley is one that is highly polished. It's slick. As a consequence, the ball slides farther before "taking." The slow alley is just the opposite, having less smoothness. It causes a hook to "take" quickly and to hook a greater degree. The good bowler closely watches the action of his first few deliveries, so that he can control his future shots for strike hits and for properly hitting his spare leaves. The accompanying picture shows how fast or slow lanes may make a difference in the finish of the ball, and the diagrams indicate the best methods of playing each kind to hit the 1-3 pocket. If the bowler's first shot (granted that he has delievered what he believes is his normal ball) results in the ball crossing over in front of the headpin, he has reason to believe that the alley is slow. The ball "grabs" on the sluggish lane, and the hook action is extreme.

The ball on the left is an example of one thrown on a slow lane. The arrow at the right indicates how the ball might act on a fast or slick lane. The alley is so slick that the ball slides, and hook action is minimized if not lost entirely.

On a slow lane, as indicated on the diagram at the right, the bowler releases his ball nearer the center of the alley, aiming out toward the right gutter, knowing that the ball will hook in. On the fast alley, as diagramed at the left, the bowler moves to his right on the approach, aiming his hook ball to hit the 3-pin squarely.

THE 6-10 SPARE

The rather common 6-10 leave usually results when the ball breaks "high" on the headpin. That is, it hits the pins more to the left of the 1-3 pocket than the bowler intended.

The most successful method of shooting this spare is to move to the left side of the approach, and then go toward the foul line in a direct line with the 6-pin. Do not move forward in a line exactly parallel with the gutter. The object is to hit the 6-pin as full as possible, since it is the key pin in this spare. If it is struck properly the angle will take out the 10-pin as well. Accuracy is most important, since it readily can be seen that if the hit on the 6-pin is too thin on the left-hand side, the 6-pin is likely to slide past the 10-pin.

This spare emphasizes the importance of knowing alley conditions. Since I use my hook ball delivery to pick up this spare, I must know how the hook will react on the alley. If the alley is too slick or fast, my hook may not take, and the ball may slide past to the right of the 6-pin. If the alley is too slow, I might hook inside the 6-pin.

THE 2-4-5 SPARE

For years, teachers of bowling have taught the theory of "giving the ball all the alley possible," that is, shooting left-side leaves fromthe right side, and vice versa. In nearly all cases, this system is still best. The 2-4-5 leave, however, is different, and the way I play it may surprise a lot of bowlers.

The 2-4-5 leave usually results when a ball coming into the 1-3 pocket doesn't quite finish, and a very light pocket hit is recorded. The main purpose in shooting at the spare is to prevent a cherry pick or chop.

If I were to shoot this spare in the conventional manner (from the right side), I could fall easily into such an error, for the ball is likely to strike the 2-pin full and to carry through, picking up only the 4-pin, and leaving the 5-pin still standing. So, instead of widening the angle, I try to cover the spare as much as possible.

The 2-pin is the key pin here, and it can be hit from either side. In order to give myself the best possible angle at which to count, I move to the left side of the approach, knowing that this permits my hook to come in on the 2-pin at the best covering angle.

This procedure should be used on such leaves as the 2-5, the 2-5-8, and the 2-4-5-8, the latter known as the "dinner bucket."

THE 1-2-4 SPARE

When the ball finishes late or does not hook enough, the bowler very often leaves the 1-2-4 spare. This action of the ball can be likened to a curving baseball which misses the inside corner of the plate.

The key pin is the 1-pin, of course. I try to get a solid "Brooklyn" hit-squarely in the 1-2 pocket. One might make this spare with a 1-3 pocket hit, too, but unless it is accurate, the bowler is in for trouble, for if he misses the 1-pin on the right, he has missed all three pins.

On the other hand, if the bowler aims at the "Brooklyn" side, or 1-2 pocket, and misses the 1-pin, he can still get the other two, unless his delivery has gone completely out of control. It's an axiom in bowling that the difference between two pins and none at all may mean the difference between victory and defeat.

This angle of approach is also used when the bowler is confronted with the 1-2-4-7 and the 1-2-8.

THE SHORT HOOK

When the ball either fails to hook enough or has been thrown out too far, the bowler gets a 1-2-4-7-9 leave. This spare can be missed very easily, as a glance at the pin setup will show.

The safest way to play this leave is to shoot from the right-hand side for the 1-3 pocket, making the ball carry the 9-pin. If the ball is working properly, it will strike the 1-pin on the right-hand side, and the 1-2-4-7 will fall like a picket fence, the ball continuing on through to carry off the 9-pin.

It is best to gamble on making it in this fashion rather than to attempt to drive the 1-pin into the 9-pin, because the ball is larger than the pin and therefore offers a better chance of carrying the 9-pin.

The 1-2-4-7-9 conversion is open to argument, but most experts play it in the fashion I describe.

THE POCKET HIT

Not an uncommon leave is the 1-3-6-9-10, which often is the result of a ball that hooked too soon, or was directed too far to the left. In shooting at these pins, move to the left side of the approach, and try to place the ball in the 1-3 pocket. This angle takes full advantage of the width of the ball.

The ball will strike the 1-pin a glancing blow on the right side, and drive the 3-pin against the 6-pin, the 6-pin in turn knocking down the 10-pin. The ball continues on through to carry away the 9-pin. This procedure should be followed with the 1-3-9 and the 1-3-6.

Also shooting the 1-3 leave from the left-hand side of the approach cuts down the chances of a chop or cherry pick. A cherry pick has ruined many a good shot.

BABY SPLITS

The 2-7 and 3-10 leaves are known as baby splits, and they are played in similar fashion but from opposite sides. The 3-10 usually is the result of a ball that comes in on the headpin on a sharp break, but does not touch the 3-pin.

HOW TO GET SPARES

Shoot this by moving over to the left side of the approach and aiming at the space between the pins, or at the point where the 6-pin would be if it were still standing. The ball can scarcely go through on the left side of the 6-pin spot.

The 2-4-7 and the 2-7-10 require the same methods. Confidence plays a big part in shooting the baby splits. Shooting with the feeling that you are going to make the spare means that you have half the battle won. The baby splits are not nearly so difficult to make as they appear.

FIT-IN SHOTS

Fit-in shots (the 5-6, 4-5, 5-6-10, etc.) are so called because the ball must be accurately placed between the pins to successfully convert the spare.

In the accompanying diagram, note the position of the feet on the approach. Take a position just to the left of the center, move up the lane in a straight path to the foul line, and aim directly at the empty space between the 5-pin and the 6-pin.

There is little margin for error, actually only slightly more than half an inch on either side, which is cutting it pretty fine. The 5-6 and similar leaves are anything but easy. They present, probably more than any other setup, the most worthy challenge to a bowler's accuracy. They demand a perfectly placed shot.

Consequently, the feeling of accomplishment on the part of the bowler who succeeds in converting one of them often is preferred to the thrill of a strike.

THE RAILROAD

It's no fun to be confronted with a railroad, but it's a pleasure to convert one. The 5-7 leave usually is caused by a ball coming into the 1-3 pocket but failing to carry the 5-pin because the deflection is so great that the ball does not hit it.

Move slightly to the left of the center of the approach and direct the ball toward the right side of the 5-pin, so that when contact is made, the pin will slide to the left to knock over the 7-pin. Sometimes when the 5-pin is cut thin, it passes in front of the 7-pin without touching it, but then rebounds from the kickback or out of the gutter to topple the 7-pin.

The 5-7 leave is another real challenge to the bowler's accuracy. Almost invariably the 5-7 conversion rewards anyone with shouts of approval from teammates and spectators. And well it should, for skill, not luck, usually is the dominant factor in a successful completion.

THE SHARP HOOK

A ball breaking in very sharply to the headpin and carrying away the 5-pin causes such leaves as the 4-7-9, 4-9, and 4-7-9-10. Play from the right side of the approach, and angle the ball across the lane to clip the 4-pin thinly on the left side. The ball will take out the 7-pin, and the 4-pin will slide to the right and carry away the 9-pin or 10-pin or both.

This is easier said than done, but practice on this shot brings steadily increasing success. Take plenty of time and care in placing the ball on the lane.

A bowler may be lucky on this shot by striking the 4-pin on the right side in such a manner that it rebounds from the kickback to carry off both the 7-pin and the 9-pin. It goes without saying that this shot should never intentionally be played that way.

THE NOSE HIT

A nose hit on the headpin often leaves the 6-7, 6-7-10, 4-10, or 4-7-10 railroad. These are tough leaves, but not impossible, especially when played in the correct manner.

To get the best angle for the 6-7, move to the left-hand side of the approach. Walking toward the 10-pin position, aim directly at it.

If the aim is true, the ball should hit the 6-pin thinly on the right side, sliding it across the alley to the 7-pin. Try to cut the 6-pin as thin as possible, for it has a long way to slide laterally:
The shot may be accomplished by cutting the 6-pin so thin that it passes in front of the 7-pin, but makes contact with the latter coming out of the gutter or off the kickback. On the other hand, unless the bowler cuts the 6-pin very fine, he has no chance to take advantage of either the gutter or the kickback.

Note in the graph how far you should go to the left of the approach, and where the left foot should be placed at the foul line. If you follow this line of direction, you can't go far wrong.

THE 7-9 AND 8-10 LEAVES

The good bowler will not attempt to convert into spares such leaves as the 7-9 and 8-10, except when absolutely necessary.

It can be done, of course, but in the attempt, the bowler may miss both pins, an error which often means the loss of the game.

So concentrate on making the easier pin, which in the case of the 7-9 is, for the right-handed bowler, the 7-pin. The 7-pin is easier because it permits the bowler to take full advantage of the width of the lane, and he may begin closer to his normal starting position.

Therefore, take your starting stance on the right side of the approach and walk directly toward the 7-pin, releasing the ball so that your arm, in following through, comes up in front of your eyes exactly in line with the pin in question.

All too often, the bowler, irritated by his ill luck in being confronted with such a setup, fires his second ball with careless abandon, and, as a result, misses both pins. Championships have been won and lost by just such acts.

I'd like to conclude this chapter on spares with the thought that the road to bowling success is paved with concentration and perspiration. You have to practice, practice, and practice some more, until you make the shots mechanically. Only then will you be able to enjoy victory.

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